Surfing

So a couple of friends...no names...have mentioned how crazy it is that I am here in Bali, and I don't surf everyday...some of the best waves, warm water...etc....Yes, yes, I'm here. But you have to remember that I am here for some other purpose. I have my entire life to surf, but not as much opportunity to actually plant a coral reef.....so yes, I have only surfed three times since I have been here.

I surfed yesterday, stomach flu and all. With all my boys, the local boys. It was great, except for one British bitch that dropped in on me. I waited and waited patiently for my wave. She must have been out there at least an hour before I showed up. I caught this wave and it started to build momentum, pumping to pick up speed and make the section, then the bitch dropped in on me. Game over. No more mister nice gal. What the hell happened to the sister hood? I never drop in on people purposely. And there is no way in hell she didn't see me coming. I had to kick out or risk a really bad scene or accident. I probably would have ran her over. It is really dangerous to drop in on someone. One, because you can't always kick out gracefully especially of the lip of the wave. Two, it forces the other surfer to change there strategy and being in touch with the movement of the wave. Third, it's bad manners. Four, it also pushes the other surfer into the impact zone. I fall under the category of not always exiting gracefully and I almost kicked my board out at her because of the lip of the wave. I got washed into the impact zone because of her. Risking being pushed out even more over shallow reef.

So I paddle back out, and wait far outside for a set wave. After the incident I noticed that she sat further inside. I think she new I was pissed. I also noticed that she had been dropping in on other guys the entire time. No more, not my waves. That bitch has to earn her keep like the rest of us. It's funny how men want to give hand outs to the cute women. Yeah, I get it, but the message you are sending is that I am not capable of catching my own waves. Maybe it's gentlemanly...but why can't it be presented as sharing, not an act of pitty. Last week...I heard one Aussie guy explaining to a rookie (newbie surfer friend) that you have to give a couple of waves to the ladies because they don't surf as often as the men...or they can't paddle as much. FUCK THAT! I had to correct him because I couldn't stand to hear anymore of that bullshit.

Okay, so back to my surf session. I caught a really long head high wave from the top of the point to the inside section. It felt really good because I earned my street cred. and it felt really good because Blackie Montana saw it, plus the British bitch saw it too. Stay off my wave! My confidence was building and I tried to challenge myself more. "Get in the pit and try to love someone". That's my theme song in my head when I know I need to get deeper on the inside section, which risks me getting my ass kicked. Oh well.

Sorry mom, for the potty mouth.