Surfing

So a couple of friends...no names...have mentioned how crazy it is that I am here in Bali, and I don't surf everyday...some of the best waves, warm water...etc....Yes, yes, I'm here. But you have to remember that I am here for some other purpose. I have my entire life to surf, but not as much opportunity to actually plant a coral reef.....so yes, I have only surfed three times since I have been here.

I surfed yesterday, stomach flu and all. With all my boys, the local boys. It was great, except for one British bitch that dropped in on me. I waited and waited patiently for my wave. She must have been out there at least an hour before I showed up. I caught this wave and it started to build momentum, pumping to pick up speed and make the section, then the bitch dropped in on me. Game over. No more mister nice gal. What the hell happened to the sister hood? I never drop in on people purposely. And there is no way in hell she didn't see me coming. I had to kick out or risk a really bad scene or accident. I probably would have ran her over. It is really dangerous to drop in on someone. One, because you can't always kick out gracefully especially of the lip of the wave. Two, it forces the other surfer to change there strategy and being in touch with the movement of the wave. Third, it's bad manners. Four, it also pushes the other surfer into the impact zone. I fall under the category of not always exiting gracefully and I almost kicked my board out at her because of the lip of the wave. I got washed into the impact zone because of her. Risking being pushed out even more over shallow reef.

So I paddle back out, and wait far outside for a set wave. After the incident I noticed that she sat further inside. I think she new I was pissed. I also noticed that she had been dropping in on other guys the entire time. No more, not my waves. That bitch has to earn her keep like the rest of us. It's funny how men want to give hand outs to the cute women. Yeah, I get it, but the message you are sending is that I am not capable of catching my own waves. Maybe it's gentlemanly...but why can't it be presented as sharing, not an act of pitty. Last week...I heard one Aussie guy explaining to a rookie (newbie surfer friend) that you have to give a couple of waves to the ladies because they don't surf as often as the men...or they can't paddle as much. FUCK THAT! I had to correct him because I couldn't stand to hear anymore of that bullshit.

Okay, so back to my surf session. I caught a really long head high wave from the top of the point to the inside section. It felt really good because I earned my street cred. and it felt really good because Blackie Montana saw it, plus the British bitch saw it too. Stay off my wave! My confidence was building and I tried to challenge myself more. "Get in the pit and try to love someone". That's my theme song in my head when I know I need to get deeper on the inside section, which risks me getting my ass kicked. Oh well.

Sorry mom, for the potty mouth.

Sick again

So, I am sick again. Not sure what it is, but I am so tired of it. I think my body needs some antibiotics. Time to surrender. I'm just not strong enough. I feel like according to Darwins theory of evolution, I would be one of the first to die off...survivial of the fittest. Unfortunately, I come from the more sensitive species. Strong at heart and soul, but my body is suffering. I got a massage last night because my body ached so bad. I need an iron gut...just don't have it. I fought off a fever last night. It was horrible. I thought my head was going to pop off my body like a popcorn kernel. It is so hot here. 40C...which is...104 degrees fahrenheit was saturday...today is Monday. I had to explain to Komang that I desperately needed a washcloth so that I could bring the fever down from my head. He came back with a dry wash cloth...let's try this again...It needs to be wet....again it comes back to me partially wet, almost dry....let's try this again...I need some ice...thank god. Finally some relief. I honestly think that had I not used the ice...my head would have exploded.

I am back in Sanur. We were supposed to drop a new reef in Sanur today, but luckily it was canceled. The cage wasn't ready. Ramadan is throwing off alot of businesses. Religion comes first here, but not that of the Javanese (Muslim). Business is second. This drives the Balinese crazy, because it isn't part of there religion. I have until Wednesday morning to get better, which means no exerting myself. We drop the reef on Wednesday morning here in Sanur just a short boat ride from the shore. It was a scare to call off the dive this morning. You risk the support of new volunteers. The Jakarta Post is supposed to cover the dive as well..it is our first major exposure to the cause. The Jakarta Post is equivalent to the Washington Post. So today, I just went to a couple more dive shops on my list and sent out some emails. Possibly get a pedicure. Then off to bed...I know it sounds all so exciting! : P

Tulamben

So, yesterday was working in Tulamben. Met a couple of really good contacts. Boy was it hotter than hell. I try to travel as light as I possibly can, but you want to be prepaired. Walking another 5km to a dive shop was not an option..only if I want to die of over heating! I could have gotten a ride with a motor bike, but part of me was tired from having strangers take me here and there. I can always try to email once I know the company name.

Tulamben is the wreck of the Liberty, a US Army Transport ship torpedoed by a Japanese submarine in 1942 lies just off shore. During high-season, up to 100 divers descend to the wreck each day. The ship rests in 30 meters of water, is roughly 25 meters from shore and can be reached with a short swim from the beach. The highest point of the wreck tops out about 5 meters from the surface. The ship was torpedoed by the Japanese off the nearby Island of Lombok and the ship was towed to the beach at Tulamben for salvage operations. The 1963 eruption of Mt. Agung, which devestated much of the eastern side of Bali, drove the ship into the water just off shore, where it became encrusted with coral and a home to other sea life. -thanks Wikipedia. Although I must say that the coral is not as pretty as Amed.

So after walking around town for a couple hours to talk to people, I decided to check out the wreck. Not sure what I would actually see since all I had was my snorkel. I geared up and decided.....what better way to find a ship than to just follow all the scuba divers. So I hovered at the surface and followed all the bubbles. I absolutely love swimming through all the bubbles as they expand towards the surface. It's like having butterfly kisses all over your body. Sure enough I came upon the wreck. It's funny how you can enjoy the wreck just as much as possibly the divers. It's very freeing to dive down amongst the scuba divers and check out the scene for a couple seconds and then dart back up for some air. It's very rewarding to try to make it down there with your own set of lungs. Plus you don't have to wear all that gear. After visiting Amed, I would have to say that it is much more rewarding to go to Amed. You get immediate satisfaction in Amed. Steps away from the beach underwater, and you can see so much. In Tulamben you have to swim out to the wreck to see anything. There may be some other things I may have missed, but Amed is one of my favorites.

Also the women in Tulamben are very, very fu@$#ing strong! They can cary three scuba tanks and tons of gear on there heads. Amazing. I can barely carry all of my gear. Sometimes I have to make two trips to get all my gear to the boat or the beach. I couldn't help but stare, it just didn't seem humanly possible. For sure without the proper training, you could break your neck! I hear that the women are prepared from childohood. Strengthening there necks and balancing things on there heads. Makes me feel pretty wimpy.

Tomorrow I head back to Sanur. Need to get fitted for all my scuba gear. We are dropping a new reef in Sanur on Monday. It may be covered in the local paper...not totally certain, but they have asked me to be intereviewed for my efforts with the organization. hmmmmm...

Some examples of artifical reefs in Amed

Concrete blocks and some other weird foundation...... ?????

Amed

So Blackie Montana and I jumped on a scooter to hit up Amed. I don't think Blackie fully understood that I was going to drag him along with me to Amed...20-30 minutes away to work. He thought I was on "Holiday"? Funny, I had to laugh really hard. I don't schlup all this shit for Holiday! Anyhoo. Amed is a big dive location in Bali. Beautiful coral reefs, great diving and very private villas. But, it's very hot. You can tell which sides of the island get the most rain. The landscape looks like Africa and it's so dry. I have no idea what these cows, goats and chickens actually find to eat. Well, actually alot of them end up eating Plastic. There is so much plastic in Bali in general, but alot of the animals try to pick through it to find something to eat. Yeh...don't pet the dogs....or if you do...if you do....wash your hands with tons of soap..not so cute and cuddly...get it.

Okay, so Blackie escorted me to about 6 or 7 dive shops. Great response and some of the locals are really happy to see that the efforts in particular areas of the island can work co-hesively under one umbrella. Bali Reef Project. What happens alot is....some dive shops want to be the saviors of there area. They want all the credit for doing anything about the reefs...but all the other dive shops want to work as a team, no matter how big or small the operation is....also in Amed, hardly anyone has a outboard motor speed boat or "dive boat". In areas as isolated as Amed the government will not allow you to have your own boat...because it will interfere and take away the earnings of the local fisherman. So alot of divers use the local fishing boats to escort guests out to dive spots. I think this is actually a great idea...the government trying to take care of the locals, but I can see how it my inconvenience a dive business.

Reef Check recently did a big study in this area and have surveyed the health of the reefs here. Alot needs to be done. Alot of dead coral. Luckily I arrived just in time. Some of the shops were debating what to do, and I think I will try to get ahold of the person from Reef Check so that we can work together. Just recently a good 15ft patch bleached out. It seemed to happen overnight, according to the locals. I really value the education from the locals, because they see things happen over short and long periods of time. The information and insight they give, is equally valuable as that of Reef Check. Reef Check does not create artificial reefs. It is more of a credible biological resource that conducts tests and surveys all over the world. So with the aid of WWF, Reef Check and Project Aware, I hope that alot can happen. That we can be instrumental in taking action. I've got my hands in many things right now. It's really exciting to ride this wave of momentum.

After sweating like a pig, I needed to get my gills wet. Blackie and I went for a dip. It's really cute cause Blackie doesn't like to wear fins, so he flounders about kicking to get around the area in the water. It's not very gracefull, but the guy covers alot of ground and he can hold his breath for a long time. I really enjoyed having a co-pilot in the water and looking at everything. There are a couple of existing artifical reef attempts in the area. Some are concrete cages, some are concrete blocks and some look like metal foundations for a house...like something before you pour the concrete.

Lots of coral, just steps from the beach. Lots of fish. A great place for snorkeling or diving. The locals recently did an underwater beach clean up here in the bay. Interesting, but the number one item that had to pull out from the sea...were bra's!! Ladies, hang onto your bra's! Or at least get back to burning them.....

So snorekling was great. Lots of angel fish, parrot fish, and some others that I have no idea what they are. I always get a little startled when they get so close because I am afraid they are going to nibble on me. Really...I know, I know...It's just a fish...but, they are parrot fish! Those things eat coral! Good little nibblers. I think that they think I am going to feed them or something, so I actually shooooooo them away. Shoooo, shooo, go away. I always end up looking behind me to see who's following me....sure enough...mr parrot fish! So I kick a little harder. shoooo, shoooo!!

So that was a good day. This was actually yesterday. I am a day behind with my posts. Today was Tulamben.

Came up for air

So, I am in the Eastern part of Bali right now. My original stomping grounds since my first time here in Bali. It was head high yesterday, long lull in between the sets, slightly over cast and slightly mushy. Surprising. If I close my eyes I can recall how I felt as I packed on my gear to paddle out. I look down at my feet. What is under your bare feet as you take step by step. Every step inentional, with weight and strength. I have to be honest and say that my legs have felt weak, timid and unsure of there strength. I haven't been in the water for two weeks. I haven't really surfed in what feels like 2.5 months. So getting into some surf over a coral reef always makes me timid. This small venture to the point....crossing the black sand with gritty coral and pebbles between my toes...., passing three small fishing villages, and new private houses being built...as I carry all my gear to the surf spot. One man recognized me from two years ago, while I was meditating on the beach. So funny, how some things don't change.

As I paddle out the water is not as warm as I thought. It is about the same temp as trunking it in Venutra in the summer. It's over cast. It's been raining the past three days off and on. I catch one wave and it starts to wall up. Good. I need a good beating. Hopefully it will get me to snap out of my funk. It starts to rain. It isn't until this moment that I crack. Weeks of holding it all in....feeling a little vulnerable lately. As the rain beats the water harder it starts to look like a shag carpet. It's just me and four other guys. One Aussie, Two japanese and one Bali boy. I am freezing. Goose bumps...but I can't go. I need another wave......

In that moment as it rained....I laughed, and I cried. I laugh because I love odd moments like this. It's raining and I get to surf in the rain on a tropical island. It's just so silly. Organized caos. Sunny one moment and raining another. I cried. I cried because I can't control any of this. I can't take back the shit that has gone wrong in the last two weeks. I can't be mad at myself for wanting to change things and wanting them to be different. That maybe I could have worked smarter, or been more efficient. Have I worked hard enough? Have I? I don't know. I am the type of person that always thinks I can work harder. Letting go of expectations....I let go in that moment with the rain penetrating my skin. Masking my tears and allowing me a moment to fall apart and have some grace at the same time. It's funny how mother nature knows exactly what you need.

I needed that....I totally needed that.

So tomorrow it is off to Amed. Friday I am off to Tulamben. Saturday I head back home, with a short visit to Padang Bai on my way back to Sanur.
Then, dropping a reef on Sunday. Then hopefully some more diving next week.

I can't get to my Facebook at this time, so my appologies for any updates.

I have attached a picture of my little Balinese cuties, Komang's niece and nephew. They live next door to my room in Sanur. The boy cries quite a bit...But when I come home they always want me to take there picture, and now it has grown to them and their friends. The small mass of children is growing. Yesterday was Komang's nephew's fifth birthday. I got him some Hotwheels cars. He loved them!! I love them too.

A good night

So last night Harold and I were invited to attend a barbeque at one of the three major dive shops in Sanur. It was a fudnraiser for Project Aware. A joint nonprofit with Padi, that educates the dive community about environmentalism and how to care for underwater habitats while participating in the sport. Teaching stewardship and responsibility. Harold and I had no idea what we were getting our selves into when we accepted the invitation, but every little thing counts here. I think we were both alittle nervous, being the newbies.

I am starting to feel the momentum. So from my encounter with the British snobby dive lady, it led me to Else of Crystal Divers and Tom of Blue Seasons, from there I met Jonathan who introduced me to Peter, and so on. So one little unpleasant incident with the British chick actually ended up serving my purpose here on Bali in a big way. Who would have thought that last night I would have sat right next to the head of Asia-Project Aware. Project Aware is big and they came out of PADI. PADI, the global institution for scuba dive certification programs. Henrik a very nice gentleman from Sydney was very informative and made us aware of grants provided by the organization. In turn we were very excited to pitch to him our organization in person. No email, and no cold calling. What a great opportunity for all three of us to put a face with names, while at a barbeque.

I greatly enjoyed talking with Henrik (Project Aware) about surfing, and how protecting the reefs was not just a responsibility of divers. Divers tend to think that they are the only ones that know about what's under the water. I simply explained to him that I don't identify myself as a diver, and a part of the dive community. I just learned how to dive and I am a surfer. I'm a rookie at diving. Surfers care about reefs, and how some of the best waves in the world are on coral reef. That surfer's know alot about ocean currents, swells, weather patterns, coastal errosion, water shed pollution, coastal landscapes and how artificial reefs create waves. Henirk was very surprised to learn all this. Am man from Syndey Australia...a surf mecca, was surprised to hear all this....I pitched that perhaps his organization could also reach a broader audience than just divers. I wanted him to understand that Bali Reef Project was not just a non-profit to benefit the dive community. It is to also benefit anyone who cares about and plays in the ocean. When the surf is flat many surfers enjoy other water hobbies, such as spear fishing, free diving, snorkeling, ocean swimming, kayaking, etc. It is a lifestyle, not just a hobby or for sport. It was a really great conversation. I have so many ideas going through my mind...it's crazy, but that passion is what fuels me and what makes me tick.

Harold was very pleased, he loves all my ideas. It's exactly what he needs. I can tell that he is very happy to have a side kick. His eyes are full of excitement. I feel that without all my leg work maybe none of this would have come to light. Harold never knew anything about any of these bigger dive shops in Sanur. He had no idea the scope of their connections. Bali is a mecca of global people. This is what I love about the island. It has movers and shakers. People who want to make things happen. And they do. These people are great contacts and great supporters for our cause. Real power houses. I have to take a moment to pat myself on the back. All the hot days of totting my laptop, of endless hours of walking through town lost, of sleepless nights with roosters, crying babies, second hand smoke, scooter pollution, crying my eyes out, hot flashes and the flu. I have done a good thing in as little as two weeks. I have been in the right places at the right time. My dad always told me that I was a lucky person and I have always believed him. What good does it do me to believe otherwise....that I have no power and that I have no way of calling something good into my life. Law of Attraction....gotta believe.

I think for Harold this would have taken him months or even years. So it makes me very happy, to see him so happy. To see him have hope again and to see him re-energized. Because he is the one who has to keep going when I am gone. I wish I could be here for six months or even a year. It isn't completely impossible. Harold has no doubt in his mind, that I could have the whole island covered by that time. But right now I am greatful for this new perspective on the island and just my little section of it. Knowing it not only as a tourist and a surfer, or a diver, but also knowing it from the people who inhabit it for many years.

Giving is something we need to continue to explore. Giving without money. I mean giving of your mind, your heart and your soul. Sharing your ideas, bringing people together. This is what makes this experience worthwhile (life) and also getting to know yourself. Getting to know what you can handle. I haven't been able to handle all of this with grace, but I have had to dig deep and remind myself why I am here. Humbled and vulnerable. It isn't about me. It's about giving and learning to give in new ways. The world is a small place.

Earthquake

So we had an earthquake yesterday morning around 7am. It felt like at least a 4.0. The origin of theearthquake was right in Nusa Dua...only 20 minute drive away from Sanur. I woke up to the rumbling, of course everyone else is already up by 6am, except for me. Poked my head out the door wrapped in my bed sheet to see what was going on. I was more afraid of the strength of my room than anything else and pictured the ceiling caving in if the quake got stronger. Everything shook pretty good. Tina was absoultely frightened and called for me to run outside when she caught sight of me at my door. Obediently I ran out in nothing but my bed sheet. Classic....toga style. It was slightly embarrassing..one because I was still in bed, and two because I was naked under my bed sheet, except for little Gastel, who was completely nude in the middle of the patio while her mother continued to give her a bath. Being from Santa Barbara County and growing up with earthquakes was not something scary to me. I was more afraid of the integrity of my Balinese bedroom. Tina and my Balinese family were terrified. They still remember the sunami a couple years ago that wipped out thousands of people and now there are signs all over the island that display...run for the hills, with a giant wave behind the image of the person. Straight to the point, and necessary. Later that day and evening we did not encounter anymore tremors, so hopefully that is it and everything can get back to normal.

flo rida "Sugar"

Thank god for Flo Rida!!!...Kevin, you came through. I listen to "Sugar" everytime I have to cross the freeway here in Sanur. It's a major road. I plugg that song into my ipod, crank up the volume and it puts a little hip hop in my step and gives me a little push to run across the road. I trot into the city twice a day for some buzzzness, food or luxuries. This freeway is four lanes. Two in one direction and two in the other. There is a median with Plumeria trees. I have to becareful everytime because there are so many scooters, takis, buses, bike and trucks. Everyone is going at there own speed or the flow of traffic??? I think more at ther eown speed. I feel like I am trying to cross the boarder or something. Like an immigrant. Everyone honks, and I have no idea why. They are honk happy here. One honk for a ride from a taxi, another honk around a blind corner from trucks and scooters, and another honk because they think you're cute. I just turn up the volume and rock out. Repeat, repeat, repeat....Thanks Kevin, you're helping me keep my sanity.

Finally a bread crumb

So yesterday was also a very good day outside of coming down with the flu. Harold and I met with two really big dive shops here in Sanur. We need these dive shops for the exposure and the man power. Funding will have to come from International sources. Not here and not from the dive shops. Tomorrow night there is a really big event celebrating the anniversary of Blue Seasons dive shop. We are hoping to get even more exposure and help from PADI. A worldwide dive organization. I don't want to bite off more than we can chew, I want to make sure that our shit is dialed. Our procedures, and our team. Harold was really excited with the work I have done. So finally I feel that all of this has not been a complete waste. It has been a slow start for me. Today I actually want to do alot of research about the island and other coral reef projects in the area. I also want to look into other substrates that can be used to anchor the artificial reefs. These reefs have to weather the storm and swells around here. We don't want all this work to go to waste and I don't want our new team to get disenchanted too quickly by not taking the time to do the research and getting it done right. Mother nature will take it's course for sure, but we still need to do our best work here, and as cheaply as possible. Ramadan has been a problem here. All the Javanese go home until the end of Ocotber. We have a reef scheduled for the end of this month and of course our welder is Javanese. It's funny to hear the Balinese complain about these things. They really don't have nice things to say about each other. Bali produces 30% of the GNP for Indonesia in tourism alone.

I don't want to sound like an idiot tomorrow night, so I will be on the computer all day today. So lots to do. I know I should rest, but all the nice hotels are booked. Nowhere to stay until middle of next week without straying too far from Sanur. Would like to hit up Kuta, Uluwatu and Ubud soon. Schedule a dive to Tulamben next week. Lots to do and so little time for it all. I need 6 months here to really do some damage on the island..... : )

Need 9 or 8 people.

I really want to help Ege go back to school. Ege is 20 years old and she lives in Ubud. Like many she works 2 jobs. Her life. Means....working 6am to 2pm in Sanur, then driving to Ubud for her second job from 3pm to 10pm. Wake up the next day and do it all over again. I can see her 5 years from know looking more ragged and aged by 10 years with this schedule. If she only works on job one day, then she works in the rice fields either in the morning or in the afternoon with her mother and father. Work, work, work....She really likes to learn and asks me all kinds of questions about my lap top. I can tell she is smart. Her English is decent, but could use a little more refining. School costs. 10 million rupia per year. I can't afford to pay for it all by myself, but I have the idea of trying to get 9 or 8 other people who would like to sponsor Ege by contributing $10/ month for her schooling. I want to see if my friend Ketut (Donna) will mentor her and make sure that she is getting good grades. I want to make sure that Ege is holding her end of the bargain and will have to turn her grades into Ketut. A check and balance system. I know I will be back to Bali to check up on her. I am pretty sure that I could wire a monthly payment to Harold (Bali Reef Project) through paypal for her schooling or maybe visit her school of choice to see if there would be a way to pay the funds directly. Not sure. But taking all this one step at a time. I want to help her help herself. To become more educated, so that she can have one good job and possibly take better care of her family. Have more time to enjoy this life, because it is so short. She only gets one day off to clean her home and do errands. So, this is my proposal. I need 9/ or eight people to commit. No half ass or bailing on this one if you want to committ. I don't want to promise something and then not deliver. Let me know if you are interested. Why her you may ask???? I guess all I have to say is....why not. Why not give it a try? We give because we are in a position to give and without giving, life cannot give back to us. I don't know why I have been so blessed in this life, but I am very greatful.

Rock bottom

I have the flu. It sucks. I am so sick. My poor body is strong, but very sensitive right now. The flu is going around and I've got it. I wish I was from a stronger breed, but I am misrable right now. Went to the pharmacy yesterday and got some herbs and some vitamins. If I don't get better, I can't surf, and I can't scuba. No manta's and no shipwrecks. This sucks. There is a really good swell right now and I'm outta commission. Ugh...I've worked so hard on the scuba thing...it makes me so sad right now. I think I need to find a new place to live as well. I think it will crush Komang. I think I offer some newness to his daily life. I don't feel that his real family really cares about him. It makes me so sad. He makes more money being a dive master and he buys the family good food and whatever they need. We went to a barbeque the other night at his family house, which is right behind the house I am staying in. The woman I orginally thought was his mother, is actually his aunt. He's kind of an outcast. Not sure why? Fresh tuna. Yummy. I remember looking around at all the hungry faces (all men/ boys...where are all the women???) and thinking...this fish is going to feed all of us???? I ate very little that night.

Komang also funds the building of the new home. The other night I taught him how to play hearts. The power went out on the entire island. It was an opportunity for the island to go to bed early. It was funny...Komang did not like to loose, and I took this opportunity to talk some shit. Yeah, not trying to beat the guy while he was on a loosing streak, but more so to humble him. Everything can be black and white to him. He is so competitive and he has to be better than me. One time he called me a "stupid girl" and I had to give him my Medusa look. That shut him up really quick. I think he meant to be funny. Maybe it's the machisimo thing? We weren't going to bed that night until he won a game and was an equal....I also introduced him to my word finder puzzles. He loves them. they are in english and it helps him to practice his spelling. I let him take it on the boat with him and he was really excited.

Last night I called him to pick me up because I was too sick to walk home. For some reason he thought my call meant...come to the restuarant and have a beer, and smoke a cigarette. Not so good. i was very impatient. I was freezing. All I wanted to do was go home. The cigarette smoke is making me so naseau here. Everyone smokes. I have had my fair share of second hand smoking. I ened up walking home half way and then getting a taxi. Komang couldn't understand my impatience...yet again, another mis-understanding. I don't think I can do it anymore.

No office

That's right, I have no office. Everyday I have to go to a local villa to get internet connection. I don't have internet connection in the privacy of my room. The founder of the BRP lives miles away and drives in to Sanur for us to meet up and discuss things. I think I can work faster and more efficiently if I could get internet at my home. It's much more convenient and I could do research at night and be more productive during the day. So, my life lines are the internet and my cell phone. Tracking down managers and dive masters everday is very hard. Currently I am trying to get members from all the dive shops in the area. Being sick right now doesn't help. I can't seem to shake this cold, and it's slowing me down. The dive masters are in after 3pm. I can't target all of them, so 2 a day seems like a good start. Even then, I may have missed them after they have gone diving. I need to dive master when we go to plant a reef, we need there support and there business for free advertisement and awareness. There are 30 dive shops in Sanur alone. I have only made contact with one of two. I have to follow up with two more today. So my success rate is not very high right now. It should be simple, but it's not. You have to call or speak with someone in person inorder to get anything done around here. Even if you call or SMS (text) and they don't know who you are...they will never respond. So being face to face seems like the best approach, and that's if they even feel like talking to you after a full days of work. It's rough. It's high season. Business is booming right now and everyone has to work. Dive masters dive every day. 2-3 dives a day. Alot of them are sick and have problems with there sinuses. I am trying to get a little teapot to show Komang how to you a netty pot. He has worked the last 2 months without a day off. Can you imagine? Diving everyday 2-3 times a day. The water is either very cold or very warm depending on the dive. Diving is really hard on your body. The exposure to pressure, and drastic changes in environments. They are not used to the cold here and can barely tolerate it. So, poor guy has been having a really hard time equalizing. If you are sick, it's very very painful, and very dangerous to dive. You cannot clear the pressure from your ears of your nasal cavities. It's horrible. But they dive, because they have to work. They have a contract. It is only if the doctor literally writes them a note, that they have an excuse to not work. They have to work. Komang hardly complains, even when he gets bloddy noses. Not good. Hopefully I can push him to see a nose specialist, but we shall see. I don't know how he can do it. I fear that something really bad will happen before something good will happen.

If I can get contacts from all 30 dive shops before I leave...I will be happy with my work.

I have to take this opportunity to apologize for my potty mouth...but you have to understand that I am sick and not feeling well...that always seems to make me alittle less graceful. My mother knows this all too well...Her little troll....

Boat ride home from Nusa

Fuck, that hurt. Up and down we go. Landing with a really hard thud. Babies crying and luggage moving. I missed the public boat and had to get on a speed boat back to Sanur or stay another night. Thought it was slightly luxurious, and easy to get on the speed boat, but I had no choice. Public boat...not gonna happen. I needed to get back to work, so staying another night was silly. So I get on the speed boat with a bunch of locals. Have no idea how, cause it costs 150,000 rupia person. I think I got ripped off. Anyway, some shirtless tatooed asswhole is behind the wheel smoking a cigarette as we bounce all over the place. Huge air drops. Every other word out of my mouth is....FUCK... Oh, my GOD... I don't keep my mouth shut. Sorry kids, auntie is a little freaked out. I'm going to die on the speed boat and not the public boat with one good motor and 4o plus people going 15 mph. I'm going to dye with captain zero who has a Billabong sticker and magic mushroom's airbrushed on the interior of the cabin. There's no fucking way I am giving anyone a tip after this. Don't even look at me, cause right now my stare could turn anyone to stone. I was pissed. No consideration for the crying baby, and also still smoking in a closed cabin. This boat ride sucks. Miserable and praying the entire time. When we land...all I want to do is go home. I don't want someone to pester me about transport, leave me the fuck alone. Mama isn't happy. Vacation is over. Back to the grind.

Last night at Nusa Lembogan

Had a great time. Blackie is a great host. He's the favorite uncle. Born into a family of seven. The middle child. The nephews love him. Spoils his mother and his friends. A very giving soul. Has alot of good friends and has people come to stay with him from all over the world. We had a good conversation about the Bali Reef Project. What are you doing??? Why don't you get paid????This is very puzzling to the Balinese. Working for free??? Nothing is free to them. I literally have to explain this concept to many educated Balinese, so I get it. It's absoutely absurd to them. They understand the giving part...but for free.....not getting it. They think we should have an office, with a proper paid staff. Yeah, I get that...but not if the money isn't there. They point to Surfaid as an example. If Surfaid can pay people, why can't we. One woman had the absurdity to want a cut from any government funding we could recieve. She could be our contractor because she has a family to support. We should understand that....yeah, I get it, but I still go back to the definition of VOLUNTEER. I think she missed the part where we weren't trying to twist her arm into helping us. NON-PROFIT....remember. Why don't we just pay some official off in the government sector ourselves and contribute to goverment corruption??? Smart lady....definetly a business woman. I just have to smile and laugh at the same time. It's absurd, but yet creative. Gotta love Bali.

If Blackie had his way he would first put more money into the local schools, then build a hospital, then create a recycling/ trash program...all on Nusa. Why the hell should they put the reefs first? Crazy and a waste of time...he says. Did I mention that the beaches are currently littered with broken coral. Everywhere......I collected a couple pieces hoping that the scientist could put some names to the different spieces for me. All dead and adrift from the recent swell. Alot of it is used in sea walls...mixed with concrete, and to separate properties. At least the dead stuff is being used for something....but not sure about the bigger pieces I see. Don't ask. It will just make me sad.

It seems pointless to Blackie for me to want to save the reefs. The people aren't educated. They don't care or they don't understand. Good point. Education is key. All we can do is keep trying. But Blackie believes that he is a small man. Not important. How could he ever change anything? He has a great idea for a trash pick-up project, that would create a couple small jobs...but then where does the trash go anyways. Of course the cheif would have to approve of a place to dump it all. What then...they just burn it anyways. But then again..he isn't rich. Blackie does good for himself, but he isn't rich. Everyone else is rich....rolex watches...louis vitton. Yeah, he knows the name brands. He's not stupid. If you aren't rich...you can't get anything done around here. I can see his point. It seems like such a huge hurdle. I don't know how to convince someone that everyone has a voice and an opportunity to create a change. I think he would be a perfect candidate to create change. He has been exposed to so many things. He speaks english very well. He's a local. The only Blackie on the island. Everyone knows Blackie. You get lost...just ask for Blackie. You'll find him. The words just aren't there to motivate. I can't find them in my throat. Hopefully the right situation will present itself...where you can show him, that he has the power to create change. To be a leader. He would be a great leader and advocate for anything on that island.

My energy is very drained right now, but my hope isn't lost. My body is tired. But my heart is really opening up to understanding all of this. You can't loose hope. You see so much trash on the beach. I counted 30 water bottles alone on the small secret beach from snorekling the other day. I ask myself...why did I choose a 3rd world country? Why did I choose this experience. There's trash everywhere. I know, I know.....Its so easy to want to give in and just count the days until I come home. But I don't want that. I don't want to just put up with it for now and then forget about it later. I want to see this change, because I have friends here. They consider you there extended family. It's going to take a miracle to change anything around here....how do you create long lasting change.....For some crazy reason...I'd rather have it the hard way and keep trying. Swim against the current. Keep trying.

So tonight, Blackie and I are off to get some drinks and meet up with Justin and Troy. Five bintangs later, and some beef strogonoff...and a bigger group...lots of fun. Good conversations. I have no idea how I am going to get up in the morning and surf. Ugh....dehydrated, and now too much beer. Still sick. Not a good idea, but hell. You gotta live it up. I'm gonna miss this place. But hopefully I will be back before I leave for home and see Blackie again.

Nusa Lembogan day 2

If the surf is too big maybe there will be some time to snorkel on the other side of the island. You never know. It's amazing how it can change so drastically (the surf).....or not.....A small group of us got on some scooters to have a look-sie. What I love about Nusa is that most of the island survives off of sea weed harvesting, not soley tourism. People bugg you less. Seaweed, not sarongs or transport, although we did get jumped by three 8 year olds wanting there photo taken....then wanting money for it. Nice hustle boys. Seaweed. Something sustainable, and harvested everyday. 2,000 rupia per kilo. Basicaly about $1.80 USD per kilo. They literally have patches ropped off for the harvesting in the bay on the other side of the island. Instead of rice fields, there are hundreds of blue green seaweed lots. Harvested, separated by color, by spieces, and dried on tarps in the sun. It doesn't really stink. Surprised. It gets shipped off to China/ Japan for cosmetics and food. Year round. Although it grows slower in the rainy season.

So back to our snorkel adventure. Nope. None at the secret beach. The swell had wipped out alot the white sand. Waves breaking all over the place. The perfect place for some idiot to drown. Not Justin. Justin decides, it's perfect for a little dip and adventure. "K, you wanna snorkel?"...he says..you should have seen the look on my face. Are you out of your fucking mind? It looks like the napali coast on Kauai where they tell you not to swim. Sure enough he gets in....this will be interesting. I know the guy is a studd. Indiana Jones of the Pacific, but this was pushing my limits of comfort. I was worried for him and didn't want to play life guard. I figured I was the strongest swimmer in our group. Willing to go in after him. I really didn't want to, but if I had to. Not a second thought would cross my mind. I would have to go in too. Scared. Next he decides that just bobbing along in the high surf, isn't enough. He has to climb the cliff and then jump off when the water has filled into the bay. Ay, Dios! Insert...sign of the cross.

So after my little dip in the ocean, we head back to my place for some pool time and then it's off for a surf. Snorkeling is not on the list. I ended up paddling out to Playgrounds that afternoon. It was either all or nothing. I either get terribly sick or I get a good battle wound of reef rash to go home with. That's it. You just gotta suck it up and get out there. The swell had dropped, but Lacerations was still pumping, and Playgrounds was still a good 3 feet overhead on the sets. I could hear people on the pontoon hooting at all the boys getting barreled at Laceractions. I could also hear the fears of terrror as someone didn't make it. Chewed up and spit out. I sit on the shoulder of course at Playgrounds. Reef just does something to me. It takes away my courage, and then I have to go find it again. I have to hustle again amongst all the men. Not fun, but good experience. Ay, Dios! Only two waves...I'm happy. Time to head home.

Sure enough as I paddle in the side current is really strong. Great. I'm heading straight for the rocks at Coconut beach.....and everyone is watching....great. Don't panic, don't panic. Paddle your ass off to the inside and catch a wave in. Easier said than done. God I wish I had someone with me. Fuck....okay. I got it, I got it. I can finally exhale and relax. Back to Tamarind bay.

The sun is setting....the tide is really high, and waves are pumping. Line after line, after line. God I wish I had my camera. The scene was picturesque.

Come and gone from Nusa Lembogan day 1

So, I had to get away for at least a day or two and ended up on Nusa Lembogan for a little r&r. Already you may say? Yes, already. Those fucking roosters. I also have a cold and have not been sleeping well for the past 6 nights. It's hard to sleep in the heat. Purchased a ticket on the public ferry at 10am.....everyone aboard and off we go! Not! One engine only. Not gonna happen for the 13 mile journey across one of the deepest straights in the Pacific. The boat was packed. We sat for 40 minutes on the boat before they could get both engines working. Least of my worries. Did I mention that at this same time the biggest swell of the year or as the locals may claim...the biggest swell in the last three years was hitting Bali? Dead on. 15ft faces in Kuta. Yes, a boat filled to the brim, two engines, and a section of white water ahead of us. I wasn't worries until they started passing out life preservers. Yeah, cheapie $5.00 life preservers with my hand carved bamboo wistle. Nice. Loving every minute of it. Now I was worried. At least we might get washed back into the bay if anything were to happen???? Not so sure. Say a prayer and hold on tight.

Once we made it out past the break zone I was fine. We were going to be fine. As we approached the island, I was relieved. Soaked to the bone and shivering....but I was happy. Getting into the bay at Nusa was very interesting. Barges were coming up high into the air from the surf. It was amazing. I thought perhaps we will catch one of these waves in? Got some video of it, but you never really get an idea of how big the surf really is. All I can say is when a two story barge is moving up and down with the waves.....you know it's gotta be big. Couple of years ago it got loose and went into the bay. All four chains had snapped. Would have loved to see that.

Off to see my friend Blackie at Tamarind Bay, get some surf, say hello to my friend Justin and finally some quality sleep. The flu has been going around, and I was only slightly spared, but still have a cold. I think I am sick because I haven't been in the water. The ocean is my healer. I was tired, but I wanted to surf. Not gonna happen. Not today. Not with the surf like this. The biggest swell in the last three years. On Nusa it's either really big or really small. It was fucking big. Like Pipe Master's big. The fun thing is...you can get on a pontoon and watch all the big boys surf Lacerations. Amazing! Can't believe it. Those guys have balls of steel. The spray from the waves looked like some huge fire in the distance. Blackies place is in perfect view of every spot. Playgrounds, Shipwrecks, and Lacerations. Choose your poison.

the black men

So my friend Komang told me that the Japanese women like the black men. The Bali Boyz. When they come to visit Bali...the Balinese local boys go after them like a hawk to a hen. The Japanese women like the attention from the black men because the Japanese men work so much, that they are shitty boyfriends or husbands. Of course the Balinese boys want sex and will sweet talk there way into it if they can. So Komang doesn't like to leave me alone with his friends...for fear that I am a hen to the hawks. Little does Komang know that I have a secret kung fu kick. Hiya!!!

when we fail we succeed

When we fail we succeed. I am constantly learning this.

Because we fail, we can learn, and because we fail it causes us to think. Naturally it seems like the yin and yang to evolution. Making things happen. Seeing the birth and death of an idea...over and over again. I am sitting in a meeting in the middle of a cafe with Harold, Dian, Suparti, and now Sasha. So many conversations going around right now. Sasha a marine ocean specialist studying coral reefs here in Bali, has a skeptical look. They always have a skeptical look on there faces. I am learning this body language daily. I have to slightly go off tangent and say that I have felt more skeptism from expats of 10-20 years plus here in Bali, versus the local Balinese. I think they want me to suffer how they have suffered. Who am I? This girl from California...to have it easier than them. Tough love. They have good intentions...but it's like you have to earn your street cred around here. More than at home. You need to know what the reefs look like, where the bay's are...what the local history has been of each area as far as government, tourism...etc. It's alot. I have a story about that later....so back to my meeting. Basically we are trying to get credible advisories on our team. So Sasha naturally has alot of questions concerning what we actually hope to do and also if he really views our cause as worthwhile. He's a scientist, so he wants to protect the environment. Who are we to know what is best for mother nature? What species are we planting. There are many and we cannot just transplant polyps that have a faster growth rate. You need to plant diversity. What concrete are we using to anchor these artificial reefs? Different concrete's/ substrates are poreous in different ways....these are things we must think about. Why not use limestone? It's very natural to the area. Limestone mixed with concrete and dead coral...create a free form anchor. Something with nooks and rough edges, so that the coral has texture to adhere naturally. So simple, but yet...never thought of it. Everyone just makes a concrete block. Of course! It should be more organic, like it is something weathered by a local storm or years of growth.
I think we need hydro-ponic coral reef nurseries using electrical currents. Some of the local reefs have been rehabilitated using this method...it's faster...but you need to run a wire out to the reef. So...where are we getting the coral? So many questions to ask and answer to others. Maybe the best thing is for nature to run it's course. Our job is to do the least amount of harm....but the harm has been done. Done in many forms. Watershed toxicity, tourism, coral bleaching, etc. Oh my god. I think we talked for four hours straight without a drink of tea, water, juice. Nada. The government alone can take up hours. My brain hurts.
So....we may have failed to recruit the scientist (he has his own ideas)...maybe not...time will tell. Maybe I will just pick his brain about the coral species names. But, I have learned alot in just 4 hours of talking away and this is priceless. Gotta love it all. It's nice to mediate the discussion. Sit back and see everyone trying to think of what is the best action to take.

So many names to remember....

Goodness....so many names to remember....
4-8 individual Wayans, Made's, Ketut's, Komangs.....
Judy
Yani
Novie
Ena
Tina
Tony
John
Dian
Suparti
Sudurta
Sasha
Tom
Koen
David
Michael
another John.....and the normal names are not foreigners. They are Balinese with normal names...or should I say western names.
and this is just scratching the surface....I feel like a mega-sponge. Constantly absorbing everything.......everything.

Fuck up #2

Okay, so the other day I went to buy a new fan because the one I have in my home sounds like a cow being put out to pasture. Dying, slowly, slowly dying....it is so loud, that I cannot turn it on at night inorder to cool off and fend off the mosqitos. I hate to wake the sleeping babies next door. Komang's niece and nephew. Apparently me purcahsing a new fan was not a good idea. Komang was furious and very upset. Right away, I thought I had offended him. Of course, I did not really understand this at first.....but Komang insists that I come to him first if I need anything at all. He is afterall my host family. Komang is assigned to look after me while I stay in his home and he wants me to have everything that I need. Naturally.....I didn't understand at first why, but I get it now. He simply wants to take care of me, like a sister....apparently to the kids I am auntie Korina already. Cute. So it took me a while to understand Komang, because I am so independent and because I didn't see any harm in buying a new fan. But maybe that is my American way of fixing a situation quickly, but the way here...is to just simply get the fan fixed. Sounds simple, but at the same time everything in Bali moves slowly. Another humbling moment. So lesson learned...I feel like the wild mustang that has to be broken in.

The Balinese are always happy....false

My new friend Made Parta....works at a stand renting bicycles and selling sarongs. We had a wonderful long talk the other night. He has been a wealth of local knowledge and he speaks good english. I think I will go back and hang out with him to talk some more.
Never say " I'll be back tomorrow"....to buy anything. They literally believe you will be back and it's a let down. They hope that you will. Everyday for them is the same old thing. Making a living off of "I'll be back tomorrow". So, keep your word if you intend to be back tomorrow. If you don't want to buy something...just be honest and say, no thank you. Life is hard here. It's a beautiful place, but life is hard. Nothing is assured.
The Balinese people get depressed too. It's tight quarters here in Sanur. The town has a heart beat that is like constantly running a marathon. Sleep by 8pm, up by 5am. Ceremony, work and family. Busy, busy bee's.
I think I am finally adjusting to the pace...except for my cold and those fucking roosters.
K

quickie

Those fucking roosters.....ugh...
Anyhoo. I have a cold. So I have been dealing with that.
The roosters are used for cock fighting here. They need the blood for ceremony. Go figure. Sounds like a noble thing to die for. Pretty sure it's good entertainment.
Short, but bittersweet.
Have a good day.
K

Day 3...couple of things off the top of my head

1. Those fucking Roosters. They never shut up.
2. Daily fights against the mosquito invaders. They just want to suck the life force out of me.
3. Kites that fly as high as planes here. It's a bird, it's a plane....not. It's a 15ft dragon kite that could probably take down a 747 if it got caught in the jet. There are no kite flying areas here. How do explain that one on the news...Today Ketut decided to fly his kite....opps....400 people dead from kite flying enthusiast.
4. Got 1 sticker of the Bali Reef Project up in a local surf shop. 1 down....have no idea how many left to go.
5. Still no working toilet......hmmmmm...nice
6. When you finally surrender to the pace of Bali, then you will be more successful. Even the littlest of accomplishments feel like leaps and bounds.
7. Met an arrogant Britsh chick who is learning to be a dive instructor......had a long conversation about coral reef rehabilitation. She's definetly a dive shop snob. Her accent makes it even worse and she smiles when she is being rude. I can't stand that.
8. Walking with a laptop everyday sucks. My back is killing me.
9. Harold, the founder of the Bali Reef Project is one fo the nicest Canadians I have ever met. He is so patient and kind. He goes with the flow and is not afraid to adress confrontation and adversity. The Balinese do not like confrontation and avoid it at all costs.
10. Nothing around here is fast.
11. You have to let go of oyur Western ways....you can try as hard as you can...but you have to give a little to the pace of the culture here. Family and tradition first. Work???Work is second....
12. The Balinese can talk for hours about anything.
13. Wants to scuba with big manta rays....may need some extra training for this.
14. Still frightened to try driving a scooter. What do they say.....do things that scare you?
15. No I am not staying at the 5 star Bali Hiyatt and got kicked off the beach from using the beach umbrella and lounge chair yesterday. I am staying at Chateau de Roosterville.
16. I love talking to random strangers....tourists, locals....it's fun.

I need to get in the water. Tomorrow I am going to Padang Bay and hopefully I will be able to go for a snorkel at one of the devastated reefs. Not fun, but necessary to get a lay of the land. Hopefully get some before and after pictures. Wish I had a water proof GPS. Will also be meeting up with a local man who may possibly make a donation from Mercury outboard motors. Also, put up some more stickers. The locals are very supportive of this project and everyday sets new challenges and conquests. It's a love hate relationship.

I was testing out my water housing unit the other day, and barely missed being hit by some strange looking jelly fish. Also got nibble on by some tiny little fish. I think he was protecting his nest....not sure, but it startled me and I yelped like a little girl. But, I am thankful that I have my guardian angles working over time right now.