Once we made it out past the break zone I was fine. We were going to be fine. As we approached the island, I was relieved. Soaked to the bone and shivering....but I was happy. Getting into the bay at Nusa was very interesting. Barges were coming up high into the air from the surf. It was amazing. I thought perhaps we will catch one of these waves in? Got some video of it, but you never really get an idea of how big the surf really is. All I can say is when a two story barge is moving up and down with the waves.....you know it's gotta be big. Couple of years ago it got loose and went into the bay. All four chains had snapped. Would have loved to see that.
Off to see my friend Blackie at Tamarind Bay, get some surf, say hello to my friend Justin and finally some quality sleep. The flu has been going around, and I was only slightly spared, but still have a cold. I think I am sick because I haven't been in the water. The ocean is my healer. I was tired, but I wanted to surf. Not gonna happen. Not today. Not with the surf like this. The biggest swell in the last three years. On Nusa it's either really big or really small. It was fucking big. Like Pipe Master's big. The fun thing is...you can get on a pontoon and watch all the big boys surf Lacerations. Amazing! Can't believe it. Those guys have balls of steel. The spray from the waves looked like some huge fire in the distance. Blackies place is in perfect view of every spot. Playgrounds, Shipwrecks, and Lacerations. Choose your poison.
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