Saturday, October 10, 2009

A Roxy moment

On the last full day in Bali, I managed to get in a surf session with a couple of the local boys, Blackie Montana, and old man Lorenti. It was alot of fun. Cheering each other on and laughing at all the waves missed because some of us were really out of shape. I went after everything I could get my little fingers into and it felt so good to glide down the face. This time around I attempted to surf without my booties and my neoprene vest. It was all bikini baby. If the bottoms fall off, then so be it. This was my Roxy moment. I hardly get the chance to surf in just my kini. I wear the vest to protect my ribs, and for sun protection. I wear the booties for protection against the sharp reef....but it just isn't the same. The booties still get in the way and feel so awkward. If I was going to go home with cuts on my feet....I didn't care. It was my Roxy moment. When I say Roxy moment, I am referring to all the surf ad's that show some cute surfer girl in her kini on a tropical wave. All tan, smiling, and looking cute. Surfing doesn't always allow you to look nor feel cute. Sunblock all over your face, hidden under a thick full suit, hairs a mess, and maybe you forgot you weren't wearing waterproof mascara. Good ol racoon eyes. So this last session was my Roxy moment, with all my boys and fun surf. The hot sun on my skin, the cool tropical water, the blue waves, the back drop of palm trees and rice fields. Yes, yes...it was a very memorable day.

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